New York born and bred Mikey DeTemple is a filmmaker, surfer, and husband. He directed his first surf film, Picaresque, at age 25. He followed with Sight/Sound in 2011. Travel...
When I was twelve my parents got me my first surfboard—a blood red 6’6” Wilken diamond tail. The rainbow fin, bolted into a box, was scuffed on Malibu rocks. The...
San O regular Danica Elbertse got turned on to surfing by her parents in her early teens. At first she resisted, then it obsessed her, now, age 25, it’s the...
In the pre-surf cam world we checked the waves old school: we drove to the beach, found a good vantage point, and hung there, not only watching the waves but...
Surfing and camouflage have long been bedfellows. Think Gerry Lopez riding giant G-land on a camo-printed board, circa early ‘80s. Think Colonel Kilgore in Apocalypse Now, amid bombs and machine...
I’ve been a giant fan of William Finnegan’s work since I first encountered “Playing Doc’s Games,” his two-part epic surf feature in The New Yorker in 1992. In fact I...
Rin Tanaka was 12 years old when he first saw the movie On Any Sunday. The roar of Triumphs and Harley Davidsons, the soundtrack bursting with songs about freedom...
The Odyssey, Part 2 by Jamie Brisick This surfing life where travel is built into the deal. We pursue great waves, and discover new cultures, new ways of living, new selves....
The Odyssey, Part 1 by Jamie Brisick The Endless Summer provided the blueprint: We fall in love with surfing at our local break, venture up and down the coast in...
Shop Talk by Jamie Brisick It’s depicted beautifully in the movie Big Wednesday. The surf shop as community outpost, local hang, stopover between swells. Out front, a kid tic tacs...
Image of Arthur "Toots" Anchinges, courtesy of Trim Hawaiitrimhawaii.com | @trimhawaii | @onetoots Space shuttles jettison SRBs (solid rocket boosters), snakes shed skin, and surfers, very happily, leave wetsuits...
The Line: Mark, Chase, and Kyra Williams Fifty-year-old Mark Williams is a surfer, skier, and cinematographer. He is also a father who has the good fortune of sharing waves with...