In California #028: Ned Evans’s H20s
Ned Evans’s H20s drip with ocean. A surfer for sixty years, these drawings, paintings, prints, collages, and sculptures, made over the last 25 years, convey his immersion and obsession with...
-
-
In California #027: Trusting in the Feeling with Todd Weaver
Surfing is a delicious dance. And in some parts of Southern California, it’s a delicious dance involving righthand pointbreaks, in which riders gain an intuitive, almost familial relationship with the...
-
In California #026: The Enchanting World of Jack Coleman
Surfing is many things. For Italo Ferreira, it’s blasting a massive, spinning, yet-to-be-named air move in the dying seconds of a WSL final. For Maya Gabeira, it’s flying down a...
-
In California #025: The Tactile Joys of Surfing California
Surf memories lodge in the brain in interesting ways. There’s the more literal representation: a set of bottle-green waves rising from the kelp beds, steepening, and peeling in almond-shaped glory....
-
In California #024: Turn and Go! with Steve Pezman
Many years back, I wrote a book called Have Board, Will Travel: The Definitive History of Surf, Skate, and Snow. It was deliciously fun to write, mainly because I got...
-
In California #023: Russell Crotty’s California Homegrounds
Artist Russell Crotty’s surf drawings are visceral, gestural, and alive. They move forward with such kinetic force that your hair nearly blows back just looking at them. ...
-
In California #022: Richard Kenvin’s Hydrodynamica
Richard Kenvin ran his hand along the rail of a freshly shaped fish. We stood in a backyard shaping room in La Jolla. Outside the door were dozens of surfboards,...
-
In California #021: Lemonade (and Hand Planes) with Macy Deam
Mill Valley High School senior Macy Deam got busy during the pandemic. Rather than mope or whine, she headed out to her father’s backyard woodworking studio and made stuff: a...
-
In California #020: Jim Ganzer Abides
On a recent sun-ravaged Thursday, I sat across the dining table from Jim Ganzer in his Malibu living room. Clad in cargo shorts and faded orange tee, his trademark goatee...
-
In California #019: For the Love of Displacement Hulls
As a young sipper of the holy wine that is Malibu First Point, I was spellbound by one Juan Esteban Bojorquez, aka Steve Krajewski. Dark-skinned, square-jawed, sinewy and elegant, a...
-
In California #018: In Celebration of Carrie Birdwell Mann
1961 was a heady year—in surf history and history at large. JFK was sworn in as the 35th president of the United States of America. “Stand by Me” by Ben E....
-
In California #017: IN-Q and Sunset Sound
“When I’m sitting down to write a piece, I always try to start with either something that annoys me, something that moves me, or something that inspires me. Because I...
-
In California #016: South Bay Roots
The “surf industry” is a broad and sprawling term that includes everything from Wavestorms to the WSL to surf wear to wax. According to Wikipedia, the average surfer in the...
-
In California #015: Mining California’s Gold with Huell Howser
In “Every Building on the Sunset Strip,” the artist Ed Ruscha photographed the mile-and-a-half-long Sunset Strip and presented it in a 25-foot-long, accordion-folded book that takes...
-
In California #014: The Eternal Line with Steve Olson
“You can see the down line, and then there’s the up line,” said 59-year-old Steve Olson, in his cluttered art studio off Melrose in Hollywood. Clad in black boots, black...
