On March 16, Dick Dale, king of the surf guitar, passed away. He was 81. “I try to get the feeling of coming off a 10-foot wave combined with the...

On the afternoon of Friday, March 8th, I got word that Jan-Michael Vincent had died. Or rather, I saw it on Instagram, a shot of tan, chiseled, square-jawed Matt Johnson...

There is a Jungian theory that posits that the first half of our lives is about establishing identity and ego, and the second half is about spirituality, going deeper into...

“The title, Marie, Is That You?, refers to the benchmark of Hurricane Marie,” said the artist and surfer Keegan Gibbs. “Every time a swell comes it’s like, Is this going...

A few years ago I stayed with my friend Derek Hynd at his home near Byron Bay. A former top 10-ranked pro, Derek was several years into his FFFFing (aka...

Michele Lockwood is a hyphenated girl—she paints, draws, sews, writes, shoots pics, shapes boards, and is now on her way to becoming a scientist. I met her in the late...

There’s positioning yourself in the right spots on the wave, and then there’s positioning yourself in the right spots in the lineup to connect with the best waves. Australian regular...

"Life is a box of chocolates; you never know what you’re gonna get" goes the famous Forrest Gump line, but I've always thought of it more like Christmas morning, when...

San Onofre, aka San O, aka Old Man’s, packs a lot of So Cal surf history. Here is where Bob Simmons and Lorrin “Whitey” Harrison streaked across the soft, rolling...

Noosa resident Adam Harriden hates the fact that most surf wax is made from a petrochemical base—“Although you can’t see it, the petrochemicals break down into tiny particles, and seep into the...

The history of surfing is the history of surfboard design. I can’t remember who said this, or maybe I said it to myself while watching a clip of some slab...

While suburban neighborhoods are often seen as drab and uninspired, they can also work as terrific launch pads. The cookie-cutter homes, the uniform mailboxes, the lawn-mowings and car-washings on Saturday...

In the movie Big Wednesday  they’re spoken about majestically—   “In the old days I remember a wind that would blow through the canyons. It was a hot wind called a...

Flip through surf mags from the early- to mid-‘80s and you’ll likely come across the photographs of Jimmy Metyko. A Santa Barbarian by way of Texas, a graduate of Brooks...

The podcast format is immediate, urgent, kind to digressions and sidebars and general weirdness. It has no time constraints the way radio interviews do, so it allows for exploration and...